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Street Photography in Phuket The 200th Anniversary Parade and a Day Full of Surprises

In the last part of this series, we ended with flooded streets and a city soaked after hours of relentless rain. My shoes were still wet the next morning, but it was time for a new street photography adventure. Once again things did not go as expected.

A Slow Start and Gloomy Light

At the shrine I did not shoot much. It was simply too crowded and the light was still very dim. Instead, I caught up with a few friends while waiting for the parade to begin.

1. Ricoh GRIV - 1/8 - f/11 - ISO800

The streets had dried overnight, but the sky was extremely dark, and that made photographing more difficult. In this light everything felt a bit flat, and I knew that this was not going to be the most productive morning.

I came across a Masong with a huge piercing in his face. I am glad is wasn’t windy that day

2. Ricoh GRIV - 1/25 - f/11 - ISO800

3. Ricoh GRIV - 1/40 - f/11 - ISO800

4. Ricoh GRIV - 1/25 - f/11 - ISO800

5. Ricoh GRIV - 1/25 - f/11 - ISO800

I used a man in a pickup truck who was filming as a foreground element. It added context and separated the layers nicely. In the background, you can see the parade and a Masong with a truly extreme piercing.

The morning light never really improved, so I decided to call it quits earlier than planned. I needed to recharge because the evening event was going to be much bigger. And it absolutely was.

The 200th Anniversary Parade

This year marked the 200th anniversary of the festival, and for that occasion a major parade was scheduled. It started at the seaside and went all the way to Kathu Shrine, which is believed to be the oldest shrine in Phuket. The total distance was around 12 kilometers.

6. Ricoh GRIV - 1/100 - f/8.0 - ISO800

7. Ricoh GRIV - 1/6 - f/8.0 - ISO800

8. Ricoh GRIV - 1/10 - f/8.0 - ISO800

9. Ricoh GRIV - 0.3 sec - f/8.0 - ISO800

Thousands of people lined the streets to watch. Most were dressed in white, which is basically the dress code for the festival. It looks beautiful and creates a unified atmosphere.

What made this parade special was that Masongs from all shrines across Phuket came together. There were no piercings in this event, but some Masongs were still performing rituals such as cutting themselves with swords or axes.

At one point I noticed roses being handed out. I was not sure what they represented, but moments later I spotted a Masong doing something wild and quickly ran over to capture the moment.

10. Ricoh GRIV - 1/8 - f/8.0 - ISO800

11. Ricoh GRIV - 1/4 - f/8.0 - ISO800

12. Ricoh GRIV - 1/4 - f/8.0 - ISO800

Some Masongs were cutting their tongues while walking. From what I have heard, the cuts are not very deep and they heal quickly. Still, it is intense to witness.

It is important to remember that these sacrifices are a meaningful part of the local culture. As outsiders, it is not our place to judge. The rituals carry deep significance for the community.

13. Ricoh GRIV - 0.6 sec - f/8.0 - ISO800

14. Ricoh GRIV - 1/80 - f/8.0 - ISO800

15. Ricoh GRIV - 1/4 - f/8.0 - ISO800

Ahead of the Crowd and the Calm Before the Chaos

Eventually I walked a bit faster to catch up with friends and to get ahead of the parade near Kathu Shrine. Suddenly everything became very calm again. I saw a woman napping in front of her house, and even a cool beetle sitting on the wall behind her. It was a peaceful moment before the madness returned.

16. Ricoh GRIV - 1/13 - f/8.0 - ISO800

As soon as the main part of the parade arrived, all hell broke loose. Firecrackers exploded everywhere. The smoke became so thick that seeing the Masongs was a challenge. Shooting in this chaos takes effort, patience and a little luck, but the results can be incredible.

17. Ricoh GRIV - 0.3 sec - f/8.0 - ISO800

18. Ricoh GRIV - 1/4 - f/8.0 - ISO800

19. Ricoh GRIV - 1/4 - f/8.0 - ISO800

20. Ricoh GRIV - 1/4 - f/8.0 - ISO800

Arriving at Kathu Shrine

Kathu Shrine was only a few steps away from where the main crowd had gathered. It was packed with people, and more kept arriving. Outside, a designated area had been set up where Masongs could perform their ritual to step out of trance.

Because it was so busy and getting a clean shot was difficult, and because I wanted to try going to bed earlier than usual, I decided to call it a day. Early means before 1 a.m. by the way. I still needed to back up photos and recharge my batteries before waking up at 4:30 the next morning.

21. Ricoh GRIV - 1/6 - f/8.0 - ISO800

A New Shrine and a Flash Problem

The next morning we drove about 30 minutes to a different shrine. My friend had forgotten the remote for his flash and for some reason we could not get it to work on his camera. So I gave him my trigger and my flash. I mounted his Godox V350 onto my Ricoh GR IV and surprisingly it worked without any issues.

22. Ricoh GRIV - 1/6 - f/8.0 - ISO800

This shrine felt very different from the others. We did not have much time to shoot, so we tried to make the most of it. There was an area specifically for female Masongs and it was very active. When I saw multiple hands touching a Masong’s head, I knew there might be a shot worth capturing.

23. Ricoh GRIV - 1/6 - f/8.0 - ISO800

24. Ricoh GRIV - 1/10 - f/8.0 - ISO800

25. Ricoh GRIV - 1/13 - f/8.0 - ISO800

Soon after, we needed to head back outside and find a ride to Old Town for the next parade. We got lucky and hopped onto a pickup truck.

When we arrived and the parade began, I already had a bad feeling about the weather. The sky turned darker and darker. A boy sleeping in a car caught my attention, and he became the subject with the parade in the background.

26. Ricoh GRIV - 1/100 - f/11 - ISO800

27. Ricoh GRIV - 1/80 - f/11 - ISO800

28. Ricoh GRIV - 1/80 - f/11 - ISO800

Not long after that, the rain began. At first it was manageable, but it quickly became much worse. A Masong blessed people by throwing handfuls of rice at them. Another, a senior Masong, remained seated in the back of a pickup truck enduring the heavy rain.

29. Ricoh GRIV - 1/8 - f/11 - ISO800

30. Ricoh GRIV - 1/125 - f/11 - ISO800

31. Ricoh GRIV - 1/50 - f/11 - ISO800

Only one side of the road was blocked off for the parade, so the Masongs were walking on one side while motorbikes passed by on the other.

You cannot see it clearly in the images, but the rain kept intensifying until I had to pull out an umbrella.

32. Ricoh GRIV - 1/20 - f/11 - ISO800

33. Ricoh GRIV - 1/15 - f/11 - ISO800

People along the road continued watching from under their own umbrellas. Some Masongs even had rain protection that matched their outfits perfectly.

34. Ricoh GRIV - 1/50 - f/11 - ISO800

35. Ricoh GRIV - 1/500 - f/11 - ISO800

Even though shooting in the rain was challenging, it added a whole new atmosphere to the images. A completely different vibe compared to the previous days.

After about ninety minutes of walking in the rain, I was drenched and decided to call it a day. The rain continued almost nonstop for the rest of the day.

36. Ricoh GRIV - 1/25 - f/11 - ISO800

37. Ricoh GRIV - 1/40 - f/11 - ISO800

38. Ricoh GRIV - 1/40 - f/11 - ISO800

If you want to learn how to use flash in Street Photography, check out my Ultimate Guide to Flash in Street Photography video course!!

39. Ricoh GRIV - 1/50 - f/11 - ISO800

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The Real Sir Robin The Real Sir Robin

Street Photography in Phuket: A Full Day Inside the Nine Emperor Gods Festival

A few weeks ago, I packed my bags and flew from Europe all the way to Thailand for several epic days of street photography. Not to Bangkok, where most people would expect, but to the island of Phuket, a place that usually is not associated with street photography at all.

But trust me, you will be surprised.

I went specifically to document the Nine Emperor Gods Festival, a nine day celebration full of devotion, chaos, beauty and raw energy. And armed with my Ricoh GR IV, I set out to capture a full day of what this festival feels like from the inside.

Little Stories and Layered Moments

One of the first scenes I came across was a fleeting exchange between a mother and her son. These small interactions are what I love photographing most. Moments full of emotion, framed with multiple layers whenever possible.

At the shrine, Masongs begin to gather. I spotted a female Masong having her makeup applied. Lipstick being carefully brushed on before she entered trance. I positioned myself to catch that exact moment, and the flash helped isolate the gesture in the middle of all the movement.

Ricoh GRIV - 1/15 - f/9.0 - ISO800

Ricoh GRIV - 1/13 - f/9.0 - ISO800

Ricoh GRIV - 1/8 - f/9.0 - ISO800

Early Mornings in Phuket Even for a Non Morning Person

I am not usually a morning person, but the festival leaves no choice. The first rituals begin around sunrise, roughly 6 AM, so if you want to photograph anything meaningful you have to be there early.

Most photographers focus on the extreme aspects. The piercings, the blood, the shock factor.
But I wanted to capture what is happening around the chaos. The quieter stories, the small connections, the human moments that unfold on the edges.

Ricoh GRIV - 1/100 - f/9.0 - ISO800

So… What Exactly Is a Masong?

Before we go any further, it is important to know who the central figures of this festival are.

A Masong is a devotee at the Phuket Vegetarian Festival who allows the spirit of a god to possess their body.
Under trance, they become a vehicle for the deity. The Thai word ma translates to horse and reflects the meaning of becoming a physical vessel.
In this state they may undergo ritual piercings, self mutilation and other extreme acts as a form of devotion.

They are the heart of the festival.
They lead the parades.
They bless local communities.
And they are the reason this celebration is so visually and emotionally powerful.

Now that you know that, the rest of the story will make much more sense.

Ricoh GRIV - 0.3 sec - f/9.0 - ISO800

Ricoh GRIV - 1/4 - f/9.0 - ISO800

Ricoh GRIV - 1/8 - f/9.0 - ISO800

The Trance Rituals Begin

Before entering the shrine to connect with the gods, Masongs put themselves into a deep trance.
It is intense.
It is spiritual.
And visually, it is incredible.

Ricoh GRIV - 1/6 - f/9.0 - ISO800

Ricoh GRIV - 0.5 sec - f/9.0 - ISO800

Ricoh GRIV - 1/60 - f/9.0 - ISO800

Ricoh GRIV - 1/400 - f/9.0 - ISO800

Riding in the Pickup Trucks

After receiving their piercings, the Masongs travel into Phuket Old Town for a long parade. Since this shrine was too far to walk from, everyone climbed into pickup trucks.
A friendly local gave us a lift, which was such a nice gesture.

Ricoh GRIV - 1/100 - f/9.0 - ISO800

Ricoh GRIV - 1/60 - f/11 - ISO400

Ricoh GRIV - 1/500 - f/11 - ISO400

Ricoh GRIV - 1/160 - f/11 - ISO400

The Parade Begins

The parade is where everything truly comes together.

Families stand along the roadside, some with small shrines set up on tables. Masongs approach them, offer blessings, and help drive away evil spirits. The festival is deeply rooted in local culture, and even without photographing it is a beautiful thing to simply observe.

Shooting close brings you right into the action. Into the smoke, the drums, the shouting, the devotion.

Masongs usually have helpers with them, especially those with larger piercings who need support throughout the parade.

Ricoh GRIV - 1/500 - f/11 - ISO640

Ricoh GRIV - 1/250 - f/11 - ISO640

Ricoh GRIV - 1/320 - f/11 - ISO640

Ricoh GRIV - 1/250 - f/11 - ISO640

Ricoh GRIV - 1/400 - f/11 - ISO640

Ricoh GRIV - 1/1000 - f/11 - ISO640

Ricoh GRIV - 1/640 - f/11 - ISO800

Ricoh GRIV - 1/640 - f/11 - ISO800

The Firecrackers

One of the most intense elements of the parade is the firecrackers.
They are thrown at the Masongs and at the teenagers carrying the palanquins. The explosions are meant to chase away evil spirits, and the louder the better.

It gets unbelievably loud. Ear protection and protective goggles are strongly recommended if you ever attend the festival.

Ricoh GRIV - 1/200 - f/11 - ISO200

Ricoh GRIV - 1/200 - f/11 - ISO200

Then the Sky Opened Up

In the afternoon we headed to one of the main shrines for another ceremony.
Just as things were about to begin, it started pouring. Truly pouring.

Despite the downpour, the Masongs continued their parade.
We waited at the shrine for the weather to settle, and after about an hour they returned. Soaked, still in trance, heading straight inside to complete the ritual that brings them back out.

Because of the rain, almost everyone had left. The atmosphere was quiet, intimate and absolutely worth the wait.

Ricoh GRIV - 1/200 - f/11 - ISO200

Ricoh GRIV - 1/6 - f/8.0 - ISO800

Ricoh GRIV - 1/6 - f/8.0 - ISO800

Ricoh GRIV - 1/13 - f/8.0 - ISO800

Ricoh GRIV - 1/10 - f/8.0 - ISO800

Flooded Streets and Fogged Lenses

Later that evening, the drainage system was still struggling and parts of Phuket remained flooded. But the community kept going. Another parade, more devotion, more energy.

At one point, the humidity caused the filter on my GR IV to fog up, creating a soft, dreamy look in the images. A happy accident.

Ricoh GRIV - 1/30 - f/8.0 - ISO800

Ricoh GRIV - 1/8 - f/8.0 - ISO800

Ricoh GRIV - 1/15 - f/8.0 - ISO800

Ricoh GRIV - 1/20 - f/8.0 - ISO800

Ricoh GRIV - 0.5 sec - f/8.0 - ISO800

If you want to learn how to use flash in Street Photography, check out my Ultimate Guide to Flash in Street Photography video course!!

To Be Continued

This was only one day of the Nine Emperor Gods Festival. There is much more to come.
The following days brought even more intensity, more beauty and some of the most memorable photographic experiences I have ever had.

Stay tuned for Part Two.

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