Street Photography in Phuket: A Full Day Inside the Nine Emperor Gods Festival

A few weeks ago, I packed my bags and flew from Europe all the way to Thailand for several epic days of street photography. Not to Bangkok, where most people would expect, but to the island of Phuket, a place that usually is not associated with street photography at all.

But trust me, you will be surprised.

I went specifically to document the Nine Emperor Gods Festival, a nine day celebration full of devotion, chaos, beauty and raw energy. And armed with my Ricoh GR IV, I set out to capture a full day of what this festival feels like from the inside.

Little Stories and Layered Moments

One of the first scenes I came across was a fleeting exchange between a mother and her son. These small interactions are what I love photographing most. Moments full of emotion, framed with multiple layers whenever possible.

At the shrine, Masongs begin to gather. I spotted a female Masong having her makeup applied. Lipstick being carefully brushed on before she entered trance. I positioned myself to catch that exact moment, and the flash helped isolate the gesture in the middle of all the movement.

Ricoh GRIV - 1/15 - f/9.0 - ISO800

Ricoh GRIV - 1/13 - f/9.0 - ISO800

Ricoh GRIV - 1/8 - f/9.0 - ISO800

Early Mornings in Phuket Even for a Non Morning Person

I am not usually a morning person, but the festival leaves no choice. The first rituals begin around sunrise, roughly 6 AM, so if you want to photograph anything meaningful you have to be there early.

Most photographers focus on the extreme aspects. The piercings, the blood, the shock factor.
But I wanted to capture what is happening around the chaos. The quieter stories, the small connections, the human moments that unfold on the edges.

Ricoh GRIV - 1/100 - f/9.0 - ISO800

So… What Exactly Is a Masong?

Before we go any further, it is important to know who the central figures of this festival are.

A Masong is a devotee at the Phuket Vegetarian Festival who allows the spirit of a god to possess their body.
Under trance, they become a vehicle for the deity. The Thai word ma translates to horse and reflects the meaning of becoming a physical vessel.
In this state they may undergo ritual piercings, self mutilation and other extreme acts as a form of devotion.

They are the heart of the festival.
They lead the parades.
They bless local communities.
And they are the reason this celebration is so visually and emotionally powerful.

Now that you know that, the rest of the story will make much more sense.

Ricoh GRIV - 0.3 sec - f/9.0 - ISO800

Ricoh GRIV - 1/4 - f/9.0 - ISO800

Ricoh GRIV - 1/8 - f/9.0 - ISO800

The Trance Rituals Begin

Before entering the shrine to connect with the gods, Masongs put themselves into a deep trance.
It is intense.
It is spiritual.
And visually, it is incredible.

Ricoh GRIV - 1/6 - f/9.0 - ISO800

Ricoh GRIV - 0.5 sec - f/9.0 - ISO800

Ricoh GRIV - 1/60 - f/9.0 - ISO800

Ricoh GRIV - 1/400 - f/9.0 - ISO800

Riding in the Pickup Trucks

After receiving their piercings, the Masongs travel into Phuket Old Town for a long parade. Since this shrine was too far to walk from, everyone climbed into pickup trucks.
A friendly local gave us a lift, which was such a nice gesture.

Ricoh GRIV - 1/100 - f/9.0 - ISO800

Ricoh GRIV - 1/60 - f/11 - ISO400

Ricoh GRIV - 1/500 - f/11 - ISO400

Ricoh GRIV - 1/160 - f/11 - ISO400

The Parade Begins

The parade is where everything truly comes together.

Families stand along the roadside, some with small shrines set up on tables. Masongs approach them, offer blessings, and help drive away evil spirits. The festival is deeply rooted in local culture, and even without photographing it is a beautiful thing to simply observe.

Shooting close brings you right into the action. Into the smoke, the drums, the shouting, the devotion.

Masongs usually have helpers with them, especially those with larger piercings who need support throughout the parade.

Ricoh GRIV - 1/500 - f/11 - ISO640

Ricoh GRIV - 1/250 - f/11 - ISO640

Ricoh GRIV - 1/320 - f/11 - ISO640

Ricoh GRIV - 1/250 - f/11 - ISO640

Ricoh GRIV - 1/400 - f/11 - ISO640

Ricoh GRIV - 1/1000 - f/11 - ISO640

Ricoh GRIV - 1/640 - f/11 - ISO800

Ricoh GRIV - 1/640 - f/11 - ISO800

The Firecrackers

One of the most intense elements of the parade is the firecrackers.
They are thrown at the Masongs and at the teenagers carrying the palanquins. The explosions are meant to chase away evil spirits, and the louder the better.

It gets unbelievably loud. Ear protection and protective goggles are strongly recommended if you ever attend the festival.

Ricoh GRIV - 1/200 - f/11 - ISO200

Ricoh GRIV - 1/200 - f/11 - ISO200

Then the Sky Opened Up

In the afternoon we headed to one of the main shrines for another ceremony.
Just as things were about to begin, it started pouring. Truly pouring.

Despite the downpour, the Masongs continued their parade.
We waited at the shrine for the weather to settle, and after about an hour they returned. Soaked, still in trance, heading straight inside to complete the ritual that brings them back out.

Because of the rain, almost everyone had left. The atmosphere was quiet, intimate and absolutely worth the wait.

Ricoh GRIV - 1/200 - f/11 - ISO200

Ricoh GRIV - 1/6 - f/8.0 - ISO800

Ricoh GRIV - 1/6 - f/8.0 - ISO800

Ricoh GRIV - 1/13 - f/8.0 - ISO800

Ricoh GRIV - 1/10 - f/8.0 - ISO800

Flooded Streets and Fogged Lenses

Later that evening, the drainage system was still struggling and parts of Phuket remained flooded. But the community kept going. Another parade, more devotion, more energy.

At one point, the humidity caused the filter on my GR IV to fog up, creating a soft, dreamy look in the images. A happy accident.

Ricoh GRIV - 1/30 - f/8.0 - ISO800

Ricoh GRIV - 1/8 - f/8.0 - ISO800

Ricoh GRIV - 1/15 - f/8.0 - ISO800

Ricoh GRIV - 1/20 - f/8.0 - ISO800

Ricoh GRIV - 0.5 sec - f/8.0 - ISO800

If you want to learn how to use flash in Street Photography, check out my Ultimate Guide to Flash in Street Photography video course!!

To Be Continued

This was only one day of the Nine Emperor Gods Festival. There is much more to come.
The following days brought even more intensity, more beauty and some of the most memorable photographic experiences I have ever had.

Stay tuned for Part Two.

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Street Photography in Phuket The 200th Anniversary Parade and a Day Full of Surprises

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Chasing Light and Stories: Street Photography in Galle, Sri Lanka